Use It All

An interesting article about a restaurant group in New York City that buys whole animals and uses it all.

And every Tuesday morning in the rear dining room, a scene plays out that’s not just Old World old, but positively primeval. Sitting around a weathered wooden table, the heads of a tribe are dividing up the meat of large animals — on paper, at least.

All of the meat served at Marlow & Sons and the three other Brooklyn restaurants Mark Firth and Andrew Tarlow own — Diner, next door, and two branches of the upscale taquería Bonita — comes from small farms in New York and Pennsylvania. Since last fall, rather than picking and choosing the cuts they need, the restaurants have ordered entire carcasses, butchering them at Marlow & Sons, in a cramped back room.

They are thinking about hiring a candle maker to use up all the beef tallow.